8K+ Broad Peak

May 11, 2020
Peaks, Treks

Elevation: 8047 Meters

Location: Gilgit-Baltistan

Time: Not Specific

Accessibility: Year Round

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Broad Peak (Urdu: بروڈ پیک‎) is a Himalayan mountain on the border of Pakistan and China, the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 metres (26,401 ft) above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz WinterstellerMarcus SchmuckKurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition.

Contents

  1. Geography
  2. Etymology
  3. Climbing history
  4. Timeline
  5. See also
  6. References
  7. Further reading
  8. External links

Geography

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China. It is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus “Broad Peak”.

The mountain has five summits: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m).

Etymology

The literal translation of “Broad Peak” to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people. The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.

Climbing history

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz WinterstellerMarcus SchmuckKurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters or base camp support.

In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.

In 2008 Frenchwoman Élisabeth Revol made a solo ascent of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II within 16 days and without the aid of oxygen as her climbing partner Antoine Girard had fallen ill.

In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.

In summer 2012, five members of “Koroška 8000” – Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to seven more climbers from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012.

On March 5, 2013 Maciej BerbekaAdam BieleckiTomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was the twelfth Eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth Eight-thousander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers.[11] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are “no chances at all” of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski. On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.

In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.

On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard’s paraglider flight over Broad Peak was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit.

On July 14th 2019 a 17 year old Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan became the youngest ever to summit this peak at along with his two HAPs Akbar Hussain Sadpara and Abbas.

Timeline

  • 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germanyon the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
  • 1957 First ascent by an Austrian expedition.
  • 1983 First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska.
  • 1984 First one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak (solo) by Krzysztof Wielickiin 21.5 hours.
  • 1992 On August 4, Enric Dalmau FerréÒscar CadiachAlberto Sonciniand Lluís Ràfols were the first to reach the summit from the Chinese side.
  • 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolioreached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.
  • 1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreevachieved a solo ascent.
  • 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.
  • 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named RouteIran.
  • 2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached to 8000 m.
  • 2019 July 14th, Shehroze Kashif at the age of 17 became the youngest ever to summit this peak. He also became the youngest Pakistani to reach this altitude

HOW TO REACH?

1. Islamabad to Skardu:

By Air or By public transport or by personal transport.

2. Skardu to Askole:

Jeep Trek

3. Askole to Broad Peak Basecamp:

Trekking than Climbing

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