8K+ Gasherbrum I

May 11, 2020
Peaks, Treks

Elevation: 8068 Meters

Location: Gilgit-Baltistan

Time: Not Specific

Accessibility: Year Round

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Gasherbrum (Urdu: گاشر برم‎) is a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya on the border of the Chinese– Xinjiang province and the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan. The massif contains three of the world’s 8,000 metre peaks (if Broad Peak is included). Although the word “Gasherbrum” is often claimed to mean “Shining Wall”, presumably a reference to the highly visible face of Gasherbrum IV, it comes from “rgasha” (beautiful) + “brum” (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means “beautiful mountain”.

Contents

  1. Geography
  2. Climbing history
  3. See also
  4. Sources
  5. References

Geography

Peak metres feet Latitude (N) Longitude (E) Prominence (m)
Gasherbrum I 8,080 26,509 35°43′27″ 76°41′48″ 2,155
Broad Peak 8,047 26,400 35°48′35″ 76°34′06″ 1,701
Gasherbrum II 8,035 26,362 35°45′27″ 76°39′15″ 1,523
Gasherbrum III 7,952 26,089 35°45′34″ 76°38′31″ 355
Gasherbrum IV 7,925 26,001 35°45′39″ 76°37′00″ 725
Gasherbrum V 7,147 23,448 35°43′45″ 76°36′48″ 654
Gasherbrum VI 6,979 22,897 35°42′30″ 76°37′54″ 520
Gasherbrum VII 6,955 22,818 39°44’19” 76°36’0″ 165
Gasherbrum Twins 6,912 and 6,877 22,677 and 22,562 35°34’13” 76°35’36” 162

In 1856, Thomas George Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant and a member of the Great Trigonometric Survey of India, sighted a group of high peaks in the Karakoram from more than 200 km away. He named five of these peaks K1, K2, K3, K4 and K5, where the “K” denotes Karakoram. Today, K1 is known as Masherbrum, K3 as Gasherbrum IV, K4 as Gasherbrum II and K5 as Gasherbrum I. Only K2, the second highest mountain in the world, has retained Montgomerie’s name. Broad Peak was thought to miss out on a K-number as it was hidden from Montgomerie’s view by the Gasherbrum group.

Climbing history

Mountain altitude first ascent first winter ascent
Gasherbrum I 8068 m 1958 by Pete Schoening and A. J. Kauffman (USA) 2012 by Adam BieleckiJanusz Gołąb (Poland)[1]
Broad Peak (if included in group) 8047 m 1957 by Marcus SchmuckFritz WinterstellerKurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl (Austria) 2013 by Adam Bielecki, Artur MałekMaciej BerbekaTomasz Kowalski (Poland)
Gasherbrum II 8035 m 1956 by Fritz Moravec, S. Larch, H. Willenpart (Austria) 2011 by Simone Moro (Italy), Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan), Cory Richards (United States)
Gasherbrum III 7952 m 1975 by Wanda Rutkiewicz, A. Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Janusz Onyszkiewicz and K. Zdzitowiecki (Poland) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum IV 7925 m 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (Italy) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum V 7147 m 2014 by S. Nakjong and A. Chi Young (Korea) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum VI 7001 m Unclimbed, attempted 1998 by a French group (two dead) and a Danish group (Bo Belvedere Christensen, Mads Granlien and Jan Mathorne reaching 6200 m) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum VII 6755 m 2019 by Cala Cimenti (Italy) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum Twins Unclimbed Unclimbed in winter

HOW TO REACH?

1. Islamabad to Skardu:

By Air or By public transport or by personal transport.

2. Skardu to Askole:

Jeep Trek

3. Askole to Gasherbrum I Basecamp:

Trekking than Climbing

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